Ernest Hemingway (via theohpioneer)
a coconut and broken surfboard- improv Indo Board
The distinct silhouette of the Green Angel mobile repair truck finally approached. Four hours later we were back on the road. Apparently front driver-side wheel bearing seized up and melted to the axle. Fixing it required a jack, hacksaw, can of grease, and new bearing. The next day we arrived back at the beach we had fled earlier. For me, the main purpose of the trip was to regain confidence in more powerful surf. I’d spent a winter in Hawaii when I was 18, but had grown soft working in Southern California. A few days, double overhead peaks provided hollow tubes before the midday sea breeze fluffed up. Every encounter with a breaking wave shook bones, emptied lungs and tested the resiliency of my surfboard and leash. After making some steep take-offs, I inched further behind the peak with each ride.
I mostly rode a volume forward 7’3” Lightning Bolt style pintail shaped by Jeff McCallum out of San Diego. The fin setup was a quad instead of the tradition single fin, which helped to knife the rail in the face of the steeper waves right off the take off. Paddling out after catching a set, I saw the wave of the trip sucking up in a rip current. Swinging around underneath the building face, I dropped in sideways and sat in the pocket as it stretched and bowled until the inside was dark except for a hole of light. Just as I thought the beefy nose of my board was going to get slapped by the lip I shot out with the spit.
Home sweet home
Dinner for two
Lindsay and Crystal arrived in March. They’d commandeered their parents’ old mini van from British Colombia in search of good waves and good times. They called their ride “Van Morrison” and mine “Van Halen.” With the inside fully functioning, I figured I might as well give the outside a makeover as well. So with 15 cans of spray paint, a ding pulling kit and Bond-O from the local home improvement store, I repaired a decade’s worth of dents and scratches before covering them with primer. Ryan Burch, who was moving into the downstairs of the old house at the time suggested I apply the camo pattern with stencils, but it looked more like a military dairy cow than a tank, so with the fine design sense of the Canadian girls I blended the paint to resemble a combat ready Monet.Read More
Mateo post shred session. For those of you who don’t know Matt and his gal Brittany pretty much started the whole artistic/riding tradition surfboards/filmmaking trend over 20 years ago. They just launched a vimeo page with some of their surf film gems featuring their animation and hot surfing.
Deep in Mainland Mex
Inspired by Jay Nelson’s camper, I set about transforming my trusty ex-electrian’s Econoline van into something that I would be proud to call home. I met a couple from Tofino named Ash and Mikela hanging around Encinitas in their camper van to escape their winter. I invited them into the yard to repair their dings and Ash became my first accomplice. The inside of van contained nothing but a rear metal cage, storage shelves and a make-shift bed consisting of a three quarter inch sheet of ply and a foam pad. Together we removed all of these and insulated the clean walls with thin sheets of eps foam and wood. With a blank canvas, I drafted plans to make use of the inner 10 by 6 by 4 foot space. Raising the roof would be necessity. Fiberglass bubble tops ran upwards of two thousand US dollars, so with Ash’s urging I decided to make something custom. Ash and Mikela headed back up north for another season of tree planting and yacht stewardessing and I posted a request on Facebook as I had neither the tools nor metalworking skills to complete the job.Read More
Here’s a short documentary I made for the Basque government this past winter.