Regressing Forward

The digital journal of Cyrus Sutton


Big Mundaka

After the fourth day of rain, hail and a forecast projecting more of the same, we headed towards Mundaka. I chose to be lulled by the sound of the windshield wipers and tires rolling over the wet road as we headed towards Europe’s most famous surf spot. A large winter swell was slamming into the large rocky point protruding from the rivermouth’s west end, producing large powerful waves. 

The wiser local surfers opted to watch from shore as Ryan and I feverishly paddled into the lineup.

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Handing out pink toilet paper with forks and butter knives Sancho Rodriguez explains our upcoming schedule before stopping to check on the baking Dorado. Sancho is the son of wine makers on the Spanish side of the Basque coast. At thirty-nine his refined and rugged mug resembles my personal caricature of Don Quioxte and I often picture him with a coat of arms, conquistador hemet and curved sword even though he’s Basque and Basque and Spanish politics have long had an uneasy association. Sancho is a pro. He has lined up this trip and he’s the reason I am being paid to double dip on a documentary production and surf trip.


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