An early morning session with a Korduroy X Wegener handplane
After 3 months of work the camper took its first trip
Hiking Shoes? Check
I talk to myself. It’s residual condition from growing up an only child.
I closed the last wooden storage compartment in the floor of my camper. For some reason I always get anxious when packing, I guess I’m fearful that I’ll forget something. Ironically, I’ve never left anything that I haven’t been thankful to leave behind. The accouterments of “civilized” living weigh us down and deprive us of the gifts bestowed by freedom. I am addicted to comfort and I travel as a means of breaking that addiction.
To me, the word “adventure” means “thinking on your feet.” By creatively solving physical problems I gain more resiliency to fight the fear and static. The goal is simple… but packing isn’t. Packing sucks.
Walking around to the side door, I admire my new mobile digs. The new imitation oak floor nestled beneath the pine trim makes it feel like a proper home. I grab the hanging broom from its hook and sweep the dirt I tracked in while packing. Ready to go.
I arrived at LAX from Central America around 11pm. At midnight I loaded my surfboard bag into the back of my van thinking how nice it was to only have one piece of luggage. For the past ten years nearly every trip had been weighed down by multiple pelican cases full of tripods, camera gear and the mental burden of capturing everything that moved. This trip had me carrying only basic surf gear and my 35mm point and shoot.
I was meeting Glen Horn the following morning at 7am in San Diego. After getting some 7-11 hot chocolate, I hit the freeway to begin the three hour trip south. Glen, more than anyone, inspired me to start this whole wild adventure. His “Big Red” rig which he customized from a 1950’s General Motors delivery truck had been featured in Lloyd Kahn’s “Tiny Homes” as well as an article in The Surfer’s Journal. He’s in my film “Stoked and Broke,” and is a good friend and mentor.Read More
home on the range
Just another day of surf at this Central American beachbreak
“One of the biggest things we gringos need to learn is that we will never be locals. Ever. We are forever guests.”
Tony Roberts has been traveling the world full-time for nearly twenty years. Growing up in California, at 30 he decided to quit his life directing surf and music videos to travel the world in search of good waves.
“I’ve always been a hustler. I’ve made ends meet in Bali, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and many other idillic places before they got crowded. I made it work by living cheaply like the locals and staying connected back home for jobs.”Read More
Tyler Warren styling a self-shaped log in Central America
Peak hounding in Central america
Afternoon at the reef
I barely suspended myself from the hot metal. Each time we hit a bump my arms and legs gave just enough for the truck bed to burn my ass. The tropical sun bore down through the trees as Tyler, Jared and I held tight ignoring the sting as we rolled along the dirt road.
Tyler and Jared each had single fins. Tyler’s was around 8’, Jared’s around 7’. I had a 6’3” widowmaker I’d shaped. It was inspired by Dave Parmenter’s wide point forward, larger center fin and 2 smaller side bite experiments decades prior. Neal Purchase had proven the design for backside tube-riding applications on the flawless point surf of Australia’s Gold Coast in the 90’s. I’d been infatuated with their ability to hold true lines in more powerful surf and I was excited to try it down here.
Walking down the shaded path to the break we caught our first glimpse of the mid-day surf. It was low tide and only a handful of surfers were in the water. There had been an earthquake months earlier which raised the reef a good foot and half according to the locals. The knuckles in the lips of the peeling waves showed it. It couldn’t have been more than a foot deep in the impact zone.
Here’s the teaser to my new film Compass_ing - a fantasy surf adventure to the North Pole and beyond.
Hanging out in Japan. Photo by Pero
last shot of the trip. Farewell Euskadi. Look for two new videos about the trip. Burch and I surfing and a 10 minute documentary about Basque culture with a day in the life of a farmer, shipbuilder, surfer and chef.
Check out all of our photos from the trip here
Island rights at Mundaka